It's hard to find a great piece of fish in the Midwest. I'm certainly not saying it can't be done, but your average supermarket variety in these parts is likely to be a recently thawed bog standard fillet with structural damage that cooks up mushy and slightly off. Sometimes that's how you have to roll and it's not always bad. Which is to say, sometimes you marvel that you're eating ocean fish at all.
But you could also try I love blue sea instead (ilovebluesea.com). Sustainable, usually wild-caught from the pacific, and incredibly fresh. We buy and freeze enough pounds at a time to make it worth the cost of shipping (if the supermarkets can do it, so can we), and this char was really perfect. It's got enough intramuscular fat to have a sort of custardy inside when cooked to "medium rare". The skin gets really crispy cooked over a moderate flame for most of the cooking time. Sometimes I don't even bother flipping it and then you get this gradient of doneness from well and crispy to nearly raw on top. When you have proteins you can eat raw, you've got a lot of leeway.
Underneath, we casty-ed some sweet potatoes and red onion in bacon grease and wilted in baby brassica greens at the last minute with a splash of sherry vinegar. It was perfect with a little light Rhys pinot and some piano jazz.
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