A Carbonara

Wow—what a night out. It's all balmy with barn swallows darting around for some swallowy unknown purpose. Anyway, what I mean to talk about is how I will never allow an old Italian person tell me how to make a carbonara. But you certainly can if you'd like.

—Started with local bacon, ramps from the woods out yonder, new growth thyme, and dried hot chilies to render and get lovely with a splash of wine (more on that in the payoff)

—In went turnip greens and Spring growth kale and brussels sprout leaves

—Boiled fusilli in salted water

—Mixed beautiful local Jersey cream—getting yellower by the week by the way—a pastured egg yolk, and parm-reg in a separate bowl

—Mixed it all together off the heat and finished with parsley and green ramp bits

—Ate on the porch

Drank a bottle of 2009 Mosse Chenin from Anjou. It's consistently one of my favorite bottles—all apples and pears (it is Anjou), but a bit of Christmas spice—which is to say there's a richness there with a hint of time-gone-by. So it's really the best sort of wine.

Newest Beach House on the radio.